Jewelry is a complex product. While one might look at clothing and see easily what it’s made of, jewelry is not that easy to deal with. Terms and descriptions aren’t always clear, “made of base metal”– what is base metal? While those with nickel allergies know more about what to ask, the general population doesn’t understand the different levels of stones or metals to be able to determine the value of a piece as well as why you might not need solid 14K gold jewelry for every piece of your jewelry. Also it’s important to note the differences between gold-filled and gold-plated so that you know what kind of longevity to expect from the pieces you buy and what the price should be compared to other products. (In other words, are you paying too much!) I recently ran into a jewelry designer for a collection of brands and we had some very interesting discussions. Here’s an interview done with Stephen Binger of Minigems (for young princesses AKA little girls)andPrecious 14/20 Gold-Filled Jewelry
, a collection of jewelry for teens and adults that features contemporary styles, stones and details — at very affordable prices! To make things even more affordable, there’s something special at the end of the article for you!
Talking with Stephen Binder
Designer of Minigems and Precious 14/20 Gold-Filled Jewelry
Stephen Binder runs CSB Designs which is perhaps the largest children’s 14/20 gold-filled jewelry design companies in the USA. He also is designing an emerging teen and adult line, both lines sell in over 30 retailers throughout the Northeast. The gold-filled material that Binder prefers has some extremely important benefits that readers will find helpful when shopping for jewelry. With almost 15 years in the business between retail and manufacturing we’re sure you’ll walk away with a better understanding of the various different types of metals used in jewelry making and which are best for you.
LA-Story.com: Thanks for spending time with us today. There is a lot of confusion in the marketplace over what this 14/20 gold filled material is. Can you give us a quick rundown?
SB:
Sure. To start, you’re one-hundred (thousand!) percent correct. There is massive confusion out there which stems from many different factors. I hope we can address a few of the most crucial ones here today. Basically, 14/20 gold filled materials are made by bonding a solid sheet of gold over an inner base metal. The amount of gold must equal five percent of the overall weight of the final piece to permit stamping it with the GF, 14K GF, 1/20 GF hallmark. The gold layer is bonded using heat and pressure as opposed to electroplating which results in a thicker and more strongly connected layer of gold between the skin and the inner base metal.
LA-Story.com:
I have always wondered about those hallmarks. It’s confusing as a shopper. The common ones like .925, 14k, 18k and 24k are pretty self explanatory. But this 1/20, 14/20 GF business – I’m at a loss…
SB:
Yeah, you’re not alone. Millions of students across the country suffer confusion regarding fractions as well…. Sorry I just had to put that in. Actually the fraction indicates that the gold content in the piece is 1/20 or five percent of the overall weight. The first number is sometimes used to tell you the karat value of the gold layer. The most common markings are 14/20 and 10/20 corresponding to 14k and 10k gold layers.
Minigems (for little girls) earrings!
LA-Story.com:
Five percent of the overall weight is gold. Ok. How does this compare to the amount of gold on a regularly plated piece of base metal? It does seem there is a considerable difference in the cost between the two.
SB:
The short answer to your question is there is no comparison, because there is no regulatory standard for how much gold needs to be included on a gold plated item. The gold layer on these materials is only a few microns thick and will sometimes rub off with a coarse cloth or even extreme rubbing with your finger in some cases. The gold content also does not contribute to the value of the piece in any significant way. Gold-filled findings and metals, while obviously much less expensive than solid gold, are inherently valuable due to the gold content. We save the sweepings when we design and put it all together to send back for refinement just as we save the sterling silver and 14k gold sweepings.
Ruby Red Chalcedony with vermeil chain!
There is a considerable cost difference partly based on the actual gold content and partially based on the labor involved in creating gold filled metals. Remember, the actual true gold filled material is almost exclusively manufactured in the USA. Any true 14/20 pieces out there are most likely either made in the USA, or made from materials that originate in the USA. For less expensive there are millions of options. For similar quality there are almost none.
LA-Story.com:
So this clears up the mystery regarding the markings and gives us some info on the value. But what’s the point of this material? Most people are not buying jewelry to resell it. They are buying it to wear it.
Baroque Pearl Earrings with Vermeil Russian Back and CZ Micro-Pave.
SP:
That’s exactly where I was heading too. Since the gold layer is thicker and bonded more strongly, allergic reaction is much less likely. Actually in most cases we find that even people who are sensitive to base metal can handle 14/20 gold filled. Although it costs more than the base metals, it pales in comparison to the cost of solid gold pieces. I believe that this is one of the reasons our Minigems kids line has been gaining so much steam. Parents of kids who are allergic to base metal, have few other choices other than to either try them on solid gold, or go without jewelry. When a solid gold piece costs over $100 for even the simplest earring, and your kid will likely lose it in the not too distant future, an option for under $40 retail is quite appealing.
LA-Story.com: This sounds great, we have a non-reactive material, that looks great for years, that costs way less than solid gold….. But what are the drawbacks.
SB:
Well, to be fair due to the manufacturing process of the raw materials, gold filled pieces can not be casted. With solid metals you can make any shape imaginable. If it can be cast in molten metal, it can be made into jewelry. Plating can be applied afterward to make a piece of brass shine. Since the gold layer of gold filled is applied using heat and enormous pressure you can not apply the gold after the base metal has been given its form. You have to first make the gold filled sandwich so to speak, and then build your piece from that. Melting gold filled sheet into molten metal and then casting it defeats the purpose of having the gold layer on the outside. So this, in a sense is a drawback. But to those producing art in the field that is simply the canvas on which we work. In fact, a lot of creative thought over the last few decades has led to developing some wonderfully intricate gold filled findings. Some of which we used in extremely unique pieces.
LA-Story.com: But why do I see some pieces out there in the market that are marketed as gold filled with price points competitive to gold plating?
SB:
Very simple, they are often not really gold filled, but fakes or quasi fakes. It seems that although the American authorities have a defined overall weight, and other criteria for what is considered gold filled, foreign authorities are not bound by this. In China for example, you can make a piece of metal and call it gold filled without having to have the overall percentage at what America requires. I am not even certain if they require heat bonding the gold layer or if some other weaker method is acceptable. But essentially, foreign suppliers can legally sell ‘gold filled’ items on international marketplaces even though in the US market place these items don’t qualify for using that term. In fairness, I believe that many, if not most domestic importers who deal with the fashion jewelry market are unfamiliar with the requirements that we discussed. In many cases presenting a piece as gold filled when it does not meet the real criteria is an unwitting mistake. Much to my chagrin, customers can try the material out and find their skin reacts similarly as it does to base metal. They walk away believing that gold filled won’t work for them and they really have not tried it.
LA-Story.com: That is scary. How do you tell the difference? How can our readers become smarter shoppers? What’s the takeaway from all this info?
SB:
It’s really a combination of the points we mentioned above. To break it down into a few points; When looking for a gold filled piece, be sure of the following:
1- Make sure the piece is hallmarked at least on the post with an authentic 14K GF, or an alternative 1/20 or 10/20 or 14/20.*
2- Be leary of metals with shapes and designs that are so elaborate they must have been casted. (this one is becoming harder to keep track of as GF design improves)
3-Ask if the items were domestically made or imported
4- Speak with the retailer to see if they actually know what gold-filled is, or if they are just calling it gold-filled because that is what their supplier called it.
*Readers may also look up more info online for other possible acceptable hallmarks.
Follow Stephen and his design/product portfolio on these platforms:
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/monateeldeals
-Instagram: https://instagram.com/csbgem/
-Twitter: https://twitter.com/csbgem
-Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/monateel/
Thanks to Stephen Binder for such a great interview. He’s really quite gifted as a designer and I have shared a number of photos with you in the context of this post.
In honor of this interview with Stephen Binder, we are collaborating on a discount code for the next 30 days- which means it’s good for Mother’s Day, birthday, anniversary, bridal, graduation and any other gifting opportunity that presents even those far in advance (Christmas anyone? {I know, I know, “Shut up Stevie!”})
.
Buy $40 or more and get 20% off of the entire order. Code is LA-Story20
This code is good for any and all purchases on the entire site: http://monateel.com/
The code for this 30 day (good through June 5, 2015)
Stevie Wilson,
LA-Story.com
DEALS and STEALS
I am required to tell you that I am an “affiliate” with these brands. I curate deals that offer bonuses, bargains and great products –and some are very specifically for this site to feature to YOU!
The amount I make has yet to be determined that despite people going to visit the links (and it’s in the thousands every month), I have yet to have anyone buy anything from them.
Subscribe to RSS headline updates from:
Powered by FeedBurner
If you are going to feature content from LA-Story.com including podcasts or videos including the accompanying text, please respect copyright provisions. We require a notation of content origination (meaning credit tag), a linkback to the specific page & please email the link to stevie@la-story.com before the piece goes live.
LA-Story.com, LA-Story Recessionista, Celebrity Stylescope, Celebrity Style Slam Trademark/Copyright: KBP Inc./TNBT Inc 2007-16
This is a fabulous explanation of how this all works. With the prices of gold so high it does make sense to investigate affordable alternatives to solid gold.
I agree Pam and I find it very interesting since I bought gold plate but was disappointed when the finish wore off so fast. Now I know what to buy– and the prices on his line is really affordable!